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Wheat
was domesticated over 8000 years ago in the ancient Mediterranean, and
has been a human staple throughout the world. Interestingly, from the
Middle Ages to the 19th century, wheat was little used and the hardier
but less versatile cereals (like rye and barley) and potatoes were the
principle staple foods for the European peoples. Could this 500-year hiatus
from exposure have caused our ancestors to lose genetic ability to digest
significant amounts of wheat's offensive gliadin proteins ["prolamin"-type
proteins are collectively called "gluten"], that we, now in
our wheat-centric modern culture, are just recognizing as gluten sensitivity
and not other separate medical problems?
There
are many other ground grains, legumes, and nuts (all technically seeds),
and even roots, that can be used as alternatives to wheat.
They originate from all parts of the globe, most being domesticated for
human use 4000-6000 years ago! How little we know about the rest of the
world's cooking habits here in the United States. These seed products
also contain starches and proteins, but theirs are not typically implicated
in food allergies (although anyone can be allergic to anything). For wheatless
cooking ground nuts are often used and are very tasty
and provide phytonutrients. With these however, one must be vigilant regarding
serving recipes to guests with nut allergies
At
Cooking Wheatless, we cook with all of the non-wheat "grains"
(except for barley and rye which contain a small amount of gluten-like
prolamins), but we do try to minimize the use of corn alternatives because
corn is also sometimes a common food allergen, and celiacs often have
multiple sensitivities. We do however love corn masa
flour, which has been treated with alkali, and in doing so, its main protein,
zein, is mostly denatured. We try to minimize use of dairy and milk products
(especially in our breads, but saving it for fancy deserts), choosing
soy milk over cow's milk, in most cases. Milk is a common
allergen, and for others it can contribute to sinus congestion. And lastly,
we try to minimize use of soybean flour, saving its fiber-rich goodness
for healthy breads, simply because we get so much of soy elsewhere in
our diet, and we don't want to prompt an allergy to that useful product
by putting it in everything.
[Important:
don't be fooled by "healthy breads" that use "wheat alternatives"
like spelt, kamut, durum, triticale, or einkorn—they are all varieties
of common wheat!]
There
are many wheat alternatives that can be found in bulk sections of grocery
and health food stores, and pre-packaged on the shelf as Bob's Red Mill
Brand. They constitute a range of subtle flavors and textures, giving
more life to your baking. They open a world of possibilities to you, and
they include:
- Almond
meal
- Milled
almonds. Ground fine, but not into a paste or butter. Fluffy white and
expensive from Bob's; or coarse and brown skin-flecked from Trader Joe's.
Make your own in the food processor with cheaper bulk nuts from Costco.
Due to its high fat content, store meal in the freezer or fridge. Almonds
provide lots of good fat and phytonutrients in the brown skin. The basis
of the traditional macaroon.
Amaranth
- Our
favorite alternative flour. Of Aztec origin (where the name means "immortal"),
outlawed by the Conquistadors and only recently re-introduced into common
usage. The "grain" is very tiny and golden, and is high in
protein and starch, as well as iron and calcium, and the amino acids
lysine, methionine and cysteine. It has mucilaginous properties which
helps it act in part as a binder. Good flavor and texture. Not a cereal,
but actually the seed of a plant in the same family as spinach and chard,
and grows well in arid lands. And as such, it is extremely high in protein
and oil than many other grains. Should be eaten only after cooking due
to the presence of some anti-nutrition compounds, which is not uncommon
with some seeds.
Buckwheat
- Despite
its name, there is no wheat in buckwheat. This brown triangular seed
is a relative of rhubarb and sorrel. It is a native of central Asia
and was domesticated recently, around a thousand years ago. It grows
well in poor conditions and matures very quickly, making it ideal for
growing in cold climates with short growing seasons. It has a nutty,
green and smoky flavor, perhaps a little astringent due to phenolic
compounds. It is high in lysine and minerals. Buckwheat contains a tiny
amount of mucilage, which gives it just enough stickiness to hold together
a noodle without wheat. Buckwheat is popular in Russia for making blini
(little snack pancakes), and in Breton for making savory crepes (a staple
peasant meal with a little jambon y fromage). Japanese soba
noodles are traditionally made from just buckwheat, but I have yet to
find any in an American market (even those stocking imported noodles)
that don' t also have wheat as an ingredient.
Corn
- Corn
(Maize) was domesticated in Mexico up to 10,000 years ago, and was favored
by the Incas, Mayans, Aztecs, and North American Natives. It is the
primary nourishment for Latin America and Africa. In the US most of
our corn goes to feed livestock. The natives learned early on to treat
the kernels with ashes or lime to denature the hard-to-digest corn protein
zein, to help release bound niacin so we can benefit from it, and to
help the ground meal or flour (masa when fresh, masa harina
when dried) bind better into a dough for making tortillas. Fresh corn,
popcorn, grits, polenta, and cornmeal/flour are not treated with alkali;
whereas masa, hominy, tortillas, tamales, chips, and corn nuts are.
This process is called "nixtamalization" (from the Aztec),
and mixes together the starches, emulsifies the oils and denatures and
then links the proteins—helping to make a cohesive and plastic
dough. Masa has not been given the attention it deserves in gluten-free
cooking, likely because it is mainly relegated to south of the border
cooking. Corn is distinctive in that it shares flavor and aroma component
chemicals with other foods like basmati rice, grapes, strawberries,
violet, and spice! Corn starch is a common and unexpected additive in
prepared food products and confectioner's sugar.
Fava bean
- Also
known as broad bean, it one of the largest beans we consume, and popular
in the Mediterranean. They have a thick coat that is removed. In Egypt,
a national dish, ful medames, is made from fava beans. Some
people of Middle Eastern descent lack the enzymes to digest fava proteins
and can develop a form of anemia. (Interestingly, this genetic trait
makes them less susceptible to malaria, hence perhaps its selection
in the population.) The flour is bitter prior to baking (so no licking
the spoon!), and some people report the desire for additional salt in
the recipe. Interchangeable and often used in conjunction with garbanzo
bean flour.
Flaxseed
- Full
of fiber and very high in omega-3 fatty acids. Mucilaginous quality
with strong flavor. Best when used as ground meal to allow for better
digestion of its nutrients. Comes in brown or golden varieties. A tablespoon
or two added to baked goods is reminiscent of whole wheat or bran flecks,
and helps to crisp and brown. Also known as linseed, from which we get
linseed oil for painting. Commonly fed to cattle.
Garbanzo bean
- Also
known as chickpeas or ceci beans. Popular in the eastern Mediterranean
and Indian dishes. Hummus, made of ground chickpeas, sesame tahini,
garlic, and lemon, is the ambassador dish for the region and popular
at today's potlucks and parties. It is the most important legume in
India as the national dish channa dal, and ground into flour
for papadums and pakoras. The flour is bitter prior
to baking (so no licking the spoon!), and some people report the desire
for additional salt in the recipe. Interchangeable and often used in
conjunction with garbanzo bean flour.
Hazelnut meal
- Hazelnuts
are also known as filberts and come in several commercial varieties,
roundish or elongated, and commonly grown in the Pacific Northwest.
Low in carbs and high in protein, the dark skins provide beneficial
phytonutrients. Very rich in flavor, and is the basis for the famous
Northern European linzer torte.
Masa
- See
discussion on corn.
Millet
- Millet
is a grass seed that is high in fiber and B-vitamins, swells when cooked,
and is more alkaline than other grains—making it easy to digest.
Millet is rich in a class of chemicals called ntrilosides, which may
have a cancer-protective effect. It is a staple food in northern Asia
and upper Africa. In the West, it is used mostly for cattle and bird
feeds.
Oats
- Oats
are one of the healthiest foods you can eat. But 95% of the world crop
is used as animal feed! Today the US and Britain consume the most oats
(it grows well in the wet climate of northern Europe)—what used
to be fed only to horses now graces our breakfast tables. The tough
husk of oats also contributed to its slow rise in popularity until mechanical
milling was available. Oats are a wonder food because the bran contains
a large amount of insoluble fiber called beta-glucan. This fiber can
absorb and hold water, and create a smooth feel to cooked oats, and
both tenderize and moisturize baked goods. They are also the key to
helping remove excess cholesterol from your system. Not only do oats
have a pleasing sweet flavor, but they also have antioxidant activity
due to phenolic phytochemicals. Best enjoyed as granola and in oat bran
muffins.
Potato Flour and Starch
- The
flour is dense and potato-ey, made from the whole potato. The starch
has been processed and is used an an emulsifier, thickener, and stabilizing
agent. The starch has a bland flavor and is good for baking light cakes.
Quinoa
- Quinoa
is a staple of the Incas and was domesticated near Lake Titicaca in
the Andes, where it was called "the mother grain." It is in
the same family as beets, spinach and the weed lambsquarters. The outermost
layer contains bitter compounds (saponins) which can be removed by washing
with cold water. Retail grains are reportedly pre-washed (if they weren't
you'd feel the gas), but it is probably a good idea to wash whole grain
quinoa anyhow. Quinoa is a complete protein, containing lysine and other
essential amino acids. Cook it like rice or use it in soups like barley.
The whole grains are commonly available in white or red forms, however
the flour is harder to come by. Cooked quinoa looks like teensy snails,
due to the round shape and protruding seed embryo and hilum. Also available
in flakes, which can be used like oatmeal as a crumble topper or in
lieu of crumb coating.
Rice
- Half
of the world is sustained by rice (genus Oryza), which is native
to Asia and India. There may be 100,000 varieties of rice in the world!
White rice is brown rice with the bran removed by milling ("polished"
off). The amount of the starch amylose is the main variable between
varieties, beside shape and color. Short grain rice is good for sushi,
medium grain for risotto and paella, and long grain (which contains
the most amylose) for American-style side dishes. Thai jasmine and Indian
basmati are classified as aromatic rices, and are the center of asian
meals. These rices contain high concentrations of volatile fragrant
compounds. Red, purple and black rices contain large amounts of anthocyanin
pigments in their bran (double healthy: bran + antioxidants). Sticky
(aka sweet or glutinous) rice consists almost entirely of the starch
amylopectin. The names are misleading because it is not sweet or sugary,
and the "glutIN" in it's name means sticky,
not containing "glutEN." Wild rice is not
of the same genus as the common tropical-grown rices, but is a native
of the Great Lakes region of North America and has a distinctive flavor
and texture. Flours available for gluten-free cooking are typically
made from brown, white and glutinous rices. Choose the brown rice where
possible for whole-grain goodness, and white rice for more decorative
cakes. The texture of rice flour is the most gritty of all the alternative
flours, but can be found in various grinds. Glutinous rice flour is
smoother, and it helps with binding ability and can be used as a substitute
for dry milk powder in bread recipes.
Sorghum
- Sorghum
is grown in Africa, India and now the United States. Its protein and
starch are digested slowly, making it ideal for diabetics. It has a
bland yet slightly sweet flavor which substitutes well for wheat. It
is high in the minerals iron, calcium and potassium, and makes a good
therapeutic food for those with deficiencies. Sorghum is rich in a class
of chemicals called ntrilosides, which may have a cancer-protective
effect.
Soy
- Soy
is a wonder food and is available in a multitude of forms. It is a godsend
for those on restricted diets, as it has been made to mimic a number
of foods including milk, meat and cheese. Soybeans come from China and
were domesticated 3000 years ago. A staple food in Asia, but the US
supplies half the world production! Most of the US crop is fed to livestock,
and to make cooking oils and industrial materials. Soybeans have double
the protein content of other legumes, a high oil content, a nearly ideal
balance of amino acids, and many healthy phytonutrients. But they do
contain an abundance of gas-producing complex sugars and fiber. They
hold their texture upon cooking and don't get mushy like other beans.
Popular in Japan and on your sushi plate, fresh blanched young soybeans
in the pod are called edamame and are popped open to eat the
beans. Soy milk is soaked, ground, and filtered soybeans. Soybeans have
a similar fat and protein content to cow's milk, but less saturated
fat, lacking calcium, and somewhat bland. The Asians played around with
this bland liquid and developed tofu which is curdled soy milk, rather
like our cheese. And with a little fermentation you get miso, tempeh
and soy sauce. But be aware that "soy sauce" is also made
with equal portions of wheat, so read labels to avoid soy sauce used
as flavoring. Buy wheatless tamari sauce instead, which has a milder
and more full-bodied flavor. Soy is available for baking as the flour
(and used interchangeably with fava and garbanzo flours), and as soy
protein granules or flakes.
Tapioca
- Also
called manioc or cassava and is related to spurge. Tapioca is one of
the most versatile flours used in gluten-free cooking. Used for thickening
sauces and to provide a chewy texture to baked goods.
Teff
- Teff
has been a staple in Ethiopian cooking since recorded history. It is
high in protein and rich in minerals, and typically a brown color. Can
be cooked whole as a porridge, or used as a flour in recipes. The most
well known use of teff is for making Ethiopian injera, a fermented
crepe-pancake with a spongy texture, used a both a plate liner and a
food scoop. Recipes vary for injera that may or may not include wheat
flour, so ask if out at a restaurant.
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In
addition to these flours, a wheatless kitchen must stock products that
act as binders in place of gluten:
- Eggs
- We rely mostly
on eggs to make up for lack of gluten and bind the dry ingredients together.
In baking, they work best when beaten to ribbon stage before combing
with other ingredients. Powdered egg whites are useful to have around
and can be rehyrdated quickly, saving you from wasting egg yolks when
only whites are needed. Egg replacer product is a combination of starches
and leavening agents.
Guar gum
- Made from the root
of a plant. Great thickener for sauces and gravies. Can be substituted
for the more expensive xanthan gum, but too much can be laxative in
effect.
Gelatin
- Good ol' Knox.
Made from leftover food animal bones—oooky. But we've been eating
the stuff as Jell-O since we were kids....So, what the heck...useful
in providing binding and a rich, moist mouth-feel to wheatless baked
goods.
Xanthan gum
- Key to wheatless
baking. This super-fine powder is actually derived from microorganisms
grown on corn sugar. Be careful not to spill it, as it drifts everywhere
and is very slimy to wipe up. It provides sticky binding capability
and is used in a multitude of modern processed foods, most notably in
salad dressings and ice cream. A little goes a really long way, which
is good considering the high expense of a small package.
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